How I came to buy an elfish hat

A day in Tallin:

Tallin, the nation's capital, has been an underdog for years - occupied by the Danes, the Swedes, the Germans and the Russians - yet a survivor in all its glory.

The Russians didn't withdraw their tanks until 1994, but looking at the city's Old town you are reminded much more of a quaint medieval village than a Soviet town.

Despite the dismal weather, the cityscape stilled gleamed. Ancient fortifying walls, Europe's oldest Gothic town hall, russian-style cupolas, winding alleyways, and women dawning medieval wardrobes all added to the majestic aura of the place.

The guild was still alive and well, and as a result there were the most spectacular blacksmiths, leather craftsmen and artists at every turn. Of course i had to embrace the artistic flair of the place and purchase a semi-ridulous, semi-quaint pointed hat, from a women with a huge swing in the center of her knitting shop because, quote: "a swing brings happiness to everyone"!